Once you have a budget and some materials picked out, you need to get in touch with a few contractors to give you a quotation. It is a good rule of thumb, to get a quote from up to (3) three contractors. This will allow you to review their prices and scopes to make sure everyone is pricing the project the same way (“Apples to Apples”), and everyone is supplying the same quality materials. When you receive a quotation and scope it should include different line items included in the project, any materials being used, project duration, and a firm price. When contractors want to give you a “Lump Sum Price”, there is a huge change mid project they will be asking for more money for some sort of change or another. You want and should only deal with DETAILED Quotes and Scopes.

Another MAJOR rule, that is often overlooked, is to request copies of the contractors Certificate of Liability Insurance (this protects your house and any work being performed), copies of any trade licenses they hold, and a copy of their business license. Asking for 2- recent references with photos is a plus as well. When you are in the beginning stages of your project, this is when you want to weed out the bad apples. If you are in a hurry and push through, that is when you get stuck with a bad contractor. Once you are wrapped up with a negligent contractor, it is an ordeal to get loose and get your money back. So these tasks and tips should be done first to help you dodge this problems later in the project.

To recap, there are four IMPORTANT tasks that every homeowner should do before each project. If these tasks are done, you will greatly prevent your chances of linking up with the wrong contractor.

• Prepare a Beginning Budget
• Research/ Price any Particular Materials
• Contact Minimum of (3) Contractors for a Quote
• Request Copies of Licenses, Insurance and References

If you have any questions concerning your upcoming project or even if you have a problem project, do not hesitate to contact us for our PROFESSIONAL advice at 703-772-4992.

First, what is this engineered quartz I keep hearing about? Wikipedia describes engineered stone quartz as surfacing that is made from approximately 95% natural quartz and 5% polymer resins. Testing has shown that they retain much of the toughness of quartz but display increased ductility due to the resin, improving impact resistance. Countertops are custom made and are more scratch resistant as well as less porous than other natural stone surfaces. Quartz is a nonporous material, which means it will not promote the growth of mold, mildew, or bacteria. You can keep quartz 99.9% bacteria free.

Patrick Petersen, co-owner of northern Virginia remodeling company, Revived Real Estate, says engineered stone quartz is a great option for your kitchen countertops. “The product has been around for years and has recently been perfected by companies like Ceasarstone, Hanstone, Cambria and Zodiaq. It can also be purchased from Lowes or Home Depot.  Quartz offers two major advantages over granite,” Patrick explains. “It is highly durable and doesn’t require periodic resealing. It also offers an expansive amount of color options, great for consumers looking for a specific color scheme.”

There have been whispers in the remodeling and design industries for years that granite is on its way out. But the proof is finally here, according to the recent Freedonia Group Report on countertop industry trends, there has been a definite shift in the marketplace over the last few years as quartz has become the fastest growing market segment in the industry with 13 percent growth compared to granite’s five percent.

Quartz may also be safer for your home then granite. The Environmental Protection Agency has reported receiving increasing calls from radon inspectors and concerned homeowners about granite countertops emitting dangerous levels of radon and radiation.

So if you are thinking about swapping out your old countertops, consider quartz, it’s an increasingly popular contender these days among consumers, architects, designers and remodelers alike.

Authored by Gina Nash, Marketing Director at Revived Real Estate

Winterizing your home is something you can do to prevent numerous potential issues. Here are a list of things you can do to help Winterize you home:

• Check and Test Heating Equipment (Have a Licensed Contractor such as RRE, check your unit)
• Bleed air out of lines for Radiator Heating; If Applicable
• Check Fireplace Damper for proper operation
• Check Fireplace for obstructions, if needed have a professional clean for you
• Inspect Exterior Doors and Windows for cracks and holes along the framing. These areas will allow tons of air through and need to be sealed.
• Seal Entry doors with weatherstripping if you see light or feel air coming through
• Check attic insulation; If you can see the joists, then you do not have enough. You should have at least 12″ of insulation
• Clean Gutters free of leaves and debris. Take water hose and spray through downspout to ensure proper flow
• Rake away and remove any leaves or debris from side of housing and expose foundation wall
• Check foundation wall for cracks all the way around your house. Any that are found need to be seal before water seeps in
•  Close and Secure Crawlspaces
• Check and Test Smoke Detectors, if any issues at all, replace with NEW.
• Check and Test Carbon Monoxide Detectors, if any issues at all, replace with NEW.
• Locate Water Main Shut Off Valve. If you have things blocking the valve, remove them. (If you need help locating the valve, see our article on Locating your Main Water Valve)
• Insulate any expose water piping. Exposed piping that is not insulated takes a HIGH chance of freezing and bursting.
• Isolate and Drain all Hose Bibbs
• Drain any Spas or Pools
• Trim any branches hanging too close to the house or near power lines. This will help keep your power in a nasty winter, well at least it will help you do your part.
• Reverse fans to winter mode. Fan should be turning clockwise during this mode.

Those all are tips to help you get your home prepared for the winter. If you were to leave you home or have a vacant house you would need to isolate your main water valve and drain the entire house. You can do this by shutting off the water valve and then opening all faucets, hose bibbs and flushing the toilets. Once the water is off there will be nothing to freeze in the pipes. You should then turn off your water heater breaker to ensure it doesn’t burn itself up.

For more information on Winterizing your home or if you would like Revived Real Estate to handle your winterization needs contact us at 703-772-4992.

Today many Americans are facing a whole new issue, they have lived in their homes their entire lives and now have to decide whether that house will be suitable for them during retirement. This can be a very nerve racking issue, especially for individuals facing health issues already.  Americans between the ages of 62-74 have a 81.2% home ownership rate and ages 75-84 have a 76.9% rate. With the majority of our elderly population owning their homes, it makes no sense to move and start over. In the past few years there has been a new addition to the industry to help aid America’s aging population, and allow them to stay in their familiar homes. That program is called, Aging in Place and was created to make some additions and changes to ones home to be able to live out their retired years in their home COMFORTABLY. There are various things that contractors do to make a house livable for an elderly person. Some of them are adding grab bars in the bathroom, illuminating stairs and ramps, adding ramps where stairs cannot be utilized, expanding doorways, adding non-slip surfaces to floors, adding a healthcare monitoring system and more. Some simple things that people do not normally think of that help a great deal as well, would be painting the house in a matte finish vs. semi or gloss finish, changing the door knobs to lever style handles, or even changing out the light switches with illuminated switches. These items and this process is constructed to help aid elderly persons and not add any additional challenges to their lives. Construction processes can be a nightmare sometimes and some people shy away from having a contractor come in for this very reason. But by hiring the RIGHT contractor you can be assured to walked through the process, all of your options, given a detailed estimate and a detailed construction schedule. With those things and your home being converted to a place you can feel safe to live for years to come, there should be no reason to not have a FREE IN HOME Consultation with one of our construction experts. For more information contact us at info@revivedrealestateva.com or call us to schedule your appointment at 703-772-4992.

Stair Lighting - Aging In Place

Shower Grab Gars - Aging In Place

Lever Type Door Handle - Aging In Place

Barrier Free Shower with Grab Bars & Bench

We decided to do an article on changing a thermostat. It is really quite easy if you follow a few basic rules. Pick the type of T stat (thermostat) that you want to install programmable or non programmable. According to Energy Star, “homeowners save about $180 a year by installing a programmable thermostat.”

Things you will need to change a Thermostat:

1. Small flat head screw driver
2. Small Phillips head screw driver
3. Masking/ Electric/ Duct Tape (Anything you can write on)
4. Level (Don’t have one, use your iPhone or Android device to download one)
5. Rubber Bands

Basic Instructions to changing your Thermostat

TURN OFF THE POWER—To accomplish this you will need to find the appropriate breaker. Do this by looking for the ‘’Furnace & A/C” labeled breaker on the log that is on the panel door. You will find each listed item with a number associated with each circuit. Breakers are odd numbers on the left side even on the right starting at the top and reading down. (i.e., Breaker number thirteen would be the seventh slot on the left side of the panel)

If they are not listed or numbered do the following- Set the fan function switch on your Tstat to the ON position. Go to your electric panel and start turning off the breakers one at a time until you hear the fan stop. Congratulations you’ve just found the furnace breaker. Now do the same with the A/C, some manufactures have used transformers in both or either of the units over the years.

Let’s get started.

Did I mention to turn off the power yet?

1. Remove cover of existing Tstat. Then loosen the small screws holding the wall plate/sub base together and remove the thermostat from the wall plate/sub base. Disconnect each wire, while labeling (Masking tape is good for this) each one as you go with the corresponding letter on the corresponding terminal in the Tstat. *Your old Tstat may contain mercury. If so, see warning at end of article*

2. Detach the wall plate/sub base from the wall by removing the screws that attach it to the wall gently pull on the wall plate/sub base to remove any extra Tstat wire. Take a rubber band and tie it to the main Tstat wire to keep it from falling through the hole into the wall cavity.

3. Unpack your new Tstat laying all the pieces out on a table. (At this time read factory instructions as well). Remove the cover of the new Tstat, separate the Tstat from the wall plate/sub base. Fill hole in wall behind wall plate/sub base with small piece of insulation.

4. Slip the wall plate/sub base over the Tstat wiring, level plate and mount to wall. Digital thermostats do not need to be level for proper operation but everyone that walks by it will let you know if it is not. Mark the location of the mounting holes and drill. Mount with materials provided with new Tstat. Push the wall anchors into the holes and lightly tap with your screwdriver handle (do not mar wall) until they are flush.

5. Check the wire for nicks /cuts in wire or insulation before reconnecting them. Connect the thermostat wires to the corresponding terminals on the wall plate/sub base.

6. Install batteries, set any switches per the installation instructions. Some of these switches are tiny and are located in the back of the wall plate/ sub base and are called dipswitches.

7. Attach the thermostat to the wall plate/sub base. Most thermostats will snap into position and lock on to the wall plate.

8. Restore the electricity to your heating and cooling system. Leave system switches (i.e. Cooling, Heating, On, or Auto) in off positions now it’s time to program the new Tstat if applicable.

9. To program the Tstat get a piece of paper and write down the times you want the system to cycle into set back mode. Now write down the times for normal operation, enter the data you have collected hit enter or save. It is best to let your system run less at night and when you are at work in the cooling months.

*If you have any issues with your thermostat installation or any other household issue you may have……..…. Do not hesitate to contact us at info@revivedrealestateva.com*

(Mercury inside old thermostat)

Mercury warning:

This control may contain mercury in a sealed tube. Do not place control in the trash at the end of its useful life. If this control is replacing a control that contains mercury in a sealed tube, do not place your old control in the trash.

Contact your local waste management authority for instructions regarding recycling and the proper disposal of this control, or of an old control containing mercury in a sealed tube.

HEATING, VENTILATING & AIR CONDITIONING TERMS & DEFINITIONS

A

AC – Voltage for alternating current, a type of electric current in which the polarity is constantly reversing causing the electron flow to reverse.

Air Conditioner – Any device that can remove heat from one space and deliver it to another therefore changing the temperature, humidity or general conditioning of the air.

Air cleaner – Any device that removes undesirable particles from air stream.

Air Flow – The amount of air that circulates through your Duct system, expressed in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Proper airflow depends on the indoor unit, the sizing of the ductwork and most importantly whether the filters are clean.

Air Handler – A unit that moves air for the purpose of heating or cooling the structure.   Residential air handlers include a blower, a coil (if equipped with A/C), some type of expansion device(A/C), some type of heating element or heat exchanger and a filter. Heating elements (Electric Heat) for air handlers are sold as accessories, sometimes installes at the factory.

B

BTU -  British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise or the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The heat added (Heating)or removed (A/C) from your home by an is measured in BTUs. British thermal units per hour. 12,000 BTUh equals one ton of cooling (A/C).

Burner – A device that uses some type of fuel to support combustion rated in BTU’s.

Burner Orifice – The opening through which gas flows to the air/gas mixing chamber of the burner.

C

Capacity – The amount of heat removed (A/C) or heat added to your home referred to in BTU,

Celsius -  The metric temperature scale in which water freezes at zero degrees and boils at 100 degrees, designated by the symbol (C)

CFM  – Cubic feet per minute, a standard measurement of airflow. A typical cooling (A/C) system requires 400 cfm per ton.

Charge – Adding refrigerant to a system. This is refrigerant contained in a sealed system or in the sensing bulb to a thermostatic expansion valve.

Compressor - This is the heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant to meet the cooling requirements of the system.

Condensate – Vapor that is cooled below it’s Dew Point condenses due to the lowering of its temperature. It is usually run to a drain or pump for removal.

Condenser Coil – In an air conditioner or Heat Pump (in A/C mode) it is the coil of the outside unit. The coil dissipates heat from the refrigerant, changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid. This process removes unwanted heat from the structure and dissipates it to the outdoors.

Condenser Fan -  The fan that circulates air over the condenser coil in the outdoor unit.

Contactor -  A switch (relay) which turns the Unit on and off by interrupting an electrical cicuit.

D

DC – Direct current electricity. This type of electricity (as opposed to Alternating Current, or AC) flows in one direction only, without reversing polarity.

Damper – Found in ductwork, this movable plate(manual or Automatic) opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.

Defrost – To melt frost; from heat pump coil outdoor coil.

Degree Day – A equation that calculates the amount of heating or cooling needed for a building. A degree day is equal to 65 degrees Fahrenheit minus the mean or outdoor temperature.

Dehumidifier – The removal of humidity (Moisture) in the air by a mechanical system (A/C). Usually accomplished by lowering the conditioned air below the dew point or temperature the moisture will condense.

Diffuser – A grille over an air supply duct having vanes to distribute the discharging air in a specific pattern or direction.

Down flow Furnace – A furnace that return air to the air filter is at the top and discharges or conditioned air at its bottom. Most furnaces in the U.S. are of the upflow configuration.

Drain Pan – It is the pan that catches the condensate, removed by the A Coil reaching the dew point of the conditioned air. This condensate is then removed by dumping it in a drain or pumping it outside.

Ductwork – A pipe or conduit through which air is delivered. Ducts are typically made of metal, fiberboard or a flexible material. In a home comfort system, the size and application of ductwork is critical to performance and is as important as the equipment.

E

EER – M Energy Efficiency Ratio

Expansion Valve – A refrigerant metering valve with a pressure or temperature controlled orifice.

Evaporator Coil – The indoor coil located inside the indoor unit. This is a coil made tubing in which a low pressure liquid evaporates and absorbs unwanted heat from the structure. This is where the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the indoor air that passes over the coil.

F

Fahrenheit – The temperature scale on which water freezes at 32 degrees and boils at 212 degrees; designated by the letter F.

Filter – Any device that removes impurities through a straining process.

Flue – Any vent or passageway that carries the products of combustion from a furnace.

Furnace – That part of the heating system in which the combustion of fossil fuel and transfer of heat occurs.

Fuse – A metal strip in an electrical circuit that melts and breaks the circuit when excessive current flows through it. The fuse is designed to break in order to save more expensive electrical components

G

Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger – Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home.

H

Heat Exchanger – An area, box or coil where heat flows from the warmer to the colder fluid or surface.

Heat Gain – Heat added to the conditioned space by infiltration, solar radiation, occupant respiration and lighting.

Heating Coil -  Any coil that serves as a heat source.

Heat Loss – The rate of heat transfer from a heated space to the outdoors.

Heat Pump – A mechanical compression cycle refrigeration system that can be reversed to either heat or cool the controlled space.

Heat Transfer – The movement of heat energy from one point to another. The means for such movement are conduction, convection, and radiation.

Hertz – In alternating current (AC electricity), the number of cycles per second.

HSPF -  Heating Seasonal Performance Factor, This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the heat pump system.

Humidifier – A devise that adds water vapor to the condition air to increase humidity.

Humidistat – A humidity sensing control that cycles the humidifier on and off to keep the conditioned space at a preset humidity level.

Humidity – The presence of water vapor in the air.

HVAC – Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning.

K

Kilowatt – kW 1,000 watts.

L

Latent Heat -  A type of heat, which when added to or taken from a substance, does not change the temperature of the substance but changes its state (ice, steam, vapor). Instead, the heat energy enables the substance to change its state.

M

Media – The material in a filter that traps and holds the impurities.

O

OEM  – Original equipment manufacturer.
P

Package Unit – A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed beside, on the roof, or sometimes in the attic of a home.

PSI – Pounds per square inch.
PSIA – Pounds per square inch, absolute.

PSIG – Pounds per square inch gauge.

PVC – Polyvinyl chloride; a type of plastic.

R

Reciprocating Compressor -  A compressor whose piston or pistons move back and forth in the cylinders.

Refrigerant -  A chemical that produces a refrigerating effect while expanding from a liquid state to vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R22 refrigerant. R22 is regulated in United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. R22 is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020.R134 & R410 is one of the replacements.  It’s used in approximately 95 percent of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S. today.

Refrigerant Charge – The total amount of refrigerant required for a specific system.
S

SEER  – Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the SEER, the more energy efficient the unit. The U.S. Government’s minimum SEER rating is 10.

Self Contained System -  A refrigerating system that can be moved without disconnecting any refrigerant lines; also know as a package unit.

Set point – The temperature or pressure at which a controller is set with the expectation that this will be a nominal value depending on the range of the controller.

Split System – The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.

T

Thermostatic Expansion Valve -  A refrigerant metering device that maintains a constant evaporator temperature by monitoring suction vapor superheat. Also called a thermal expansion valve.

Thermostat – A series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.

Ton – A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTUs per hour.

Two stage heating / Two stage cooling – Two stage heating and cooling is considered to be more efficient, because it operates at low speed (first stage) most of the time. However, on days when more heating or air conditioning is required, it switches to the next stage for maximum comfort.

U

U Factor – The factor representing resistance to heat flow of various building materials.

UL – Underwriters Laboratories.

Upflow Furnace – A furnace in which return air is drawn in through the sides or bottom and conditioned discharged out the top. This is the most common style furnace in the US.

V

Vacuum – A pressure below atmospheric pressure. A perfect vacuum is 30 inches Mercury (periodic symbol “Hg”).

Volt – The unit of measure used to describe a difference in electrical potential. Abbreviated by the symbol “v”.

Voltage – The force that pushes electrical current along wires and cables.
W

Watt  – The unit of electrical power equal to the flow of one amp at a potential difference of one volt.

Wet Bulb Thermometer – A thermometer whose bulb is covered with a piece of water soaked cloth and spun in the free air. The lowering of temperature as a result from the evaporation of water around the bulb indicates the air’s relative humidity.
Z

Zoning System – A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need; an air conditioning system capable of maintaining varying conditions for various rooms or zones.

To find you homes main water valve, we must first locate the water meter on the exterior of the home. Once you have found the meter, you now know the entry point of the water piping and the side of the house it is located on. Go into the lowest point of your home on the entry side of the water piping that you just located. Now, look for any piping (usually 3/4-1″ copper pipe) coming through the concrete slab, flooring, or wall. Normally this piping and valve is located near the water heater, HVAC system or laundry. Once you find the piping you will notice a valve withing a foot or two of its visibility, this is your houses main water shut off valve. CONGRATULATIONS, YOU FOUND IT!!

The main water shut off valve will be either a ball valve or a gate valve (See below for examples). You are able to isolate a ball valve by turning the handle 90 degrees, or so that the valve is opposite the piping flow direction. If your home has a gate valve you will have a handle, much like your hose bibb, merely take the handle and turn it clockwise until it stops. If it is hard to turn at first, you will need to turn it back and forth a few times to free up the internal workings and any corrosion or debris. Now you are able to isolate your houses water from its incoming source (Well or City) anytime you need. If you have a well water source you will need to turn off the breaker to the well pump as well. (If you come across any issues and you cannot find the breaker, you will need to contact an electrician.)

As stated above, shutting off the your homes water system could be for a variety of reasons. Maybe you need to have the water shut off immediately due to a water leak somewhere in the house. Too many homeowners see the problem, do not know how to isolate the system and call a plumber. By doing that you are allow the leak to continue for the amount of time it takes the plumber or insurance response team to act. This ALWAYS causes loads of unnecessary damage that did not need to be caused if the homeowner was informed. Let’s face it, problems happen and leaks will come about but being prepared for the situation will help you address it immediately. You may not have a leak but would like to add a sink or change your toilets angle stop, by having this knowledge you are prepared for either situation.

Gate Valve

Ball Valve

For more information on this or other residential issues contact Revived Real Estate at info@revivedrealestateva.com. If you ever run across an issue or problem the is too much to handle contact us at Revived Real Estate for a FREE, No Obligation Estimate.

A. Turn Off Angle Valve Located at bottom of Toilet (left side usually), at the end of the hose. To turn off, turn valve clockwise. Once you have the valve turned off you can assess the problem and either use a plunger, snake or call a plumber.

Q. Switch or Outlet stopped getting power.

A. Turn off and unplug any appliances in the affected area. Locate your electric panel. Once you have located this, open the door and look on the back of the door for the description of the area that lost power. Find the number breaker that powers the area you are having issues with (i.e., Upstairs outlets). Now look at the switches and the corresponding number and find the tripped breaker. Reset circuit breaker by switching from “Off” to “On” position on the switch. If problem continues, contact Electrician Immediately.

Q. One room in my house constantly gets hotter than the others.

A. Most of the time it is an upstairs room, next to/ above, and the garage or exterior walls. First, you should check the amount, type of insulation in the walls and ceiling of that room. Most people find that they have no insulation or lack of the proper amount. Second, you should have your Heating, Ventilating & Air Conditioning System checked to make sure it is operating properly and possibly you house recalculated for 2011 economical specifications.